How to replace AuxBeam switch with Ford Upfitter switches

[Drezor7779]

Hi, I am looking for help to use the Ford upfitter switches instead of the AuxBeam 2 button controller.
Controller has 4 small wires (white/yellow/red/black)
Harness has Main Power Cables (Red/Fused+ & Black - Negative)
I tried connecting the small wires (except the small red which is continuously hot) to the wires behind the battery; but only had the Amber DRL working.

I’m missing something.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[BUFF]

Not familiar with your setup but from your description your DRL’s have different colors thus the four wires from the controller. You need that controller to be in the circuit. The wire from the uplifters need to be wired to the plus side of fuse/red wire and black to a ground stud. You may bypass the controller but not the relay. It would take some experimenting but may not. If you are setting it up for one setup and don’t want to fool with it mount the controller under the hood and keep the wiring stock. Someone else may give you some better advice but at this point you may want to keep the wiring stock now. The protection on the uplifters is 2-5amp, 2-10amp and 2-15amp so I would check the fuse size on the hot wire and at least match the uplifter.

 

[b-real]

Are you saying you connected 2 of the wires to 2 separate upfitter switches?

 

[Jason]

What is the model of the AuxBeam light kit? From the looks of it, it uses a relay to power the lights. The switch is used to activate the relay which them powers up the light from constant 12V connection. Can verify and explain more with the model number.

 

[Drezor7779]

Hi all, it is the V-Ultra Series.
So it turns out I had it wired correctly before I posted this message unfortunately.
However the first time attempt in wiring i blew the 10amp fuse that comes in the relay harness.
After that, I corrected my mistake but didn’t test the circuit in the fuse panel (173).
The fuse 173 is fine but there is no power in that socket at all; regardless of key & switch position.
I moved it over to switch 3 and now it all works fine.
I just need to troubleshoot (173) socket now to repair Switch #1 for future accessories. ;-)

If anyone has details on the circuit that feeds the 173 socket that would be helpful.
Thanks to those who replied to help thus far.

 

[BUFF]

I have the same year truck. I looked in the owners manual and fuse 173 is located in the fuse box/under hood passenger. It protects the circuit for uplifter switch #1. 15 amp. I have the wiring diagram from my 2024 Braptor and the ignition control relay is power to all uplifter switches. So if ignition is off then no power to uplifters. Then could the fuse be after the switch? I don’t know but you can use a meter to check the connectors at fuse and switch #1 and see if it toggles. Ignition needs to be on and time of test. I would be surprised if it would be isolated unless you popped the switch itself. Also with your meter you can check the other uplifers to see if they won’t power up.

 

[BUFF]

All uplifter switches are numbered 173 to 178. Good luck

 

[Drezor7779]

I can’t find a circuit or mention for a Fuse 173 in the workshop manual

I got this info from the digital manual in truck...

 

[Drezor7779]

I have the same year truck. I looked in the owners manual and fuse 173 is located in the fuse box/under hood passenger. It protects the circuit for uplifter switch #1. 15 amp. I have the wiring diagram from my 2024 Braptor and the ignition control relay is power to all uplifter switches. So if ignition is off then no power to uplifters. Then could the fuse be after the switch? I don’t know but you can use a meter to check the connectors at fuse and switch #1 and see if it toggles. Ignition needs to be on and time of test. I would be surprised if it would be isolated unless you popped the switch itself. Also with your meter you can check the other uplifers to see if they won’t power up.

So i have the lights working from Switches 2&3. I just would to fix Sw1. The fuse is still good but no power in fuse socket regardless of "key" ignition.
I will retest again tonight in case i missed something from fatigue. Hoping to get more schematic diagrams from FORD dealer soon.

 

[ApolloChurchill]

I got this info from the digital manual in truck...

You didn’t mention what year your truck was. The fuses were re-numbered for 2024+ hence why I deleted my post after it was otherwise confirmed.

 

[BUFF]

Sorry for the notes but here is the list of uplifter switches. The wire size seems to be all the same size much unlike my Braptor. So if you are looking to use switch 1 & 2 then you may want to change the fuse to better protect your DRL’s. The wire size is around 16 gauge. Any more of a amperage draw you would be best served by installing a control relay. It would throw in another level of control but you could install higher amperage circuits and have peace of mind. The circuits aren’t very big. Off-road lights and such. I am installing a 12v Anderson power pole circuit in the bed of mine. I am taking power off the battery through an interlock relay and powering the relay through aux 6. 16 gauge wire is just too small for the potential load and leagnth of wire Sorry for the long winded explanation but I hope it gives you a little insight to these switches. I apologize if I misread your knowledge regarding your issue.

 

[BUFF]

 

[Drezor7779]

Thanks again everyone.
So i found on another post that FORD mixed up the wiring. Aux1 & Aux3 are mixed for the fusing.
See attached photo. So sure enough, i found a blown fuse but only by luck. Note the 173 &175 are swapped.

 

[Drezor7779]

Also, You would think this would be an important bulletin for dealers to be aware of, bc my dealer didn't have a clue of the mix up. Now they know!!

 

[BUFF]

Thanks for the info on the mix up. I am going to be extending my uplifter wires in the next week and at that time I will ring out the circuits and verify my own situation. Glad you finally got resolution on your power problem.

 

[Drezor7779]

Thanks for the info on the mix up. I am going to be extending my uplifter wires in the next week and at that time I will ring out the circuits and verify my own situation. Glad you finally got resolution on your power problem.

Now the concern i have is, with the mix up, what is the wire size for each circuit to coordinate the correct size fusing for it?
Since the drawings state 15/15/10/10/5/5 for switches 1-6 respectively, whats to say the wire on sw3 is rated for 15A & sw1 is rated for 10A or vice versa?? Its a bit of a mess in my opinion.

 

[BUFF]

According to chart that I copied out of the tremor manual that is in my prior post all of the uplifter switches are 1.0mm that translates to around 16 gauge wire. The only difference is the fuse size. I won’t know for sure till I remove the battery and check actual. I will do this in the next week and let you know. But if the chart is right then move the fuses all you want. But to be safe maybe stay 15 or under.

 

[BUFF]

I got my uplifter wires extended out from behind the battery. PITA. I went through a complete power check of the aux switches. My conclusion is to switch fuse numbers 173 & 175 on the fuse location sheet. On my truck everything else lines up. AUX1 is violet/green w/10 amp fuse with a label of 175 on panel. Thus making AUX3 a yellow wire w/15 amp fuse with a label of 173. Your pain is everyone else’s gain. Thanks for bringing this to light.